Sep 22 2015

Sway Control

Equalizer bars, anti-sway control, weight distribution hitch, spring bars … even if you are a seasoned Airstreamer you might think you know the difference, but it’s easy to be confused because the industry uses these terms interchangeably. And after seeing a viral video recently circulating online—footage of a trailer alarmingly fishtailing on the freeway—you may be downright apprehensive.

“Many new Airstream owners don’t know if they need sway bars, or how to use them,” said David Montijo, Airstream Sales Consultant at Lazydays RV in Tucson, Arizona. Are you doing it wrong when it comes to sway control? Answers below.

What’s the difference between all these terms?

Sway controls and weight distribution “have two completely different functions,” said Montijo. Confusion reigns because sway control systems are integrated into many popular weight distributing hitches. That means the long black weight distribution bars on your Equal-i-zer, Reese Dual-Cam and many other hitches fill a dual role: distributing weight from the trailer’s tongue to the front wheels of the tow vehicle AND limiting sway. These systems rely on friction to discourage rapid movement of the trailer, which helps prevent sway.

More sophisticated “sway prevention” hitches such as Hensley and Pro-Pride prevent sway inherently as a result of their internal geometry, so on those hitches the weight distribution bars are just doing one job.

But some other hitches don’t have integrated sway control at all, and some people tow just by putting the trailer on the ball without any additional hitch system. For those people, an add-on friction sway control is a very good idea.

What causes sway?

A myriad of conditions can allow your any trailer to erratically—and dangerously—fishtail, including: crosswinds (including the blow-by gust created by passing semi trucks and other high-profile vehicles); improper loading (too much weight at the back of trailer); or too much (or too little) tension on the sway bars.

Do I even need sway control?

It’s a good idea. “Sway bars are not required, but are necessary in case of crosswind, or when trucks are passing the unit,” said Montijo. The problem is that you can’t just slap on a sway control the moment you need it. So advance preparation is the best strategy, kind of like wearing a seat belt.

Most dealers will recommend standard weight-distribution hitch that includes sway control, so check that the one you’re using has that feature, and that it is adjusted correctly.

If you don’t have such a hitch, an independent friction sway control can be added. A typical design has a bar mechanism that moves freely as your trailer turns normally, but applies friction to create resistance—similar to the way shock absorbers reduce bounce—if your trailer begins an unwelcome swaying movement.

I have a small Bambi—but it was built in the 1960s. Do I need to worry about sway control and weight distribution?

The need for weight distribution depends on the tongue weight of the trailer. Short and light trailers from the 1950s and early 1960s often have tongue weights below 300 pounds. Weight distribution will have a minimal positive impact with such light loads, especially if the weight distribution hitch itself adds 50 or more pounds.

But that doesn’t negate the possibility of sway. “All trailers, vintage as well as new models, can and should use some type of anti-sway control for added safety,” said Montijo. Sway control helps with side winds and also when you’re towing down a steep, winding hill, and going over bumps or around corners.

Uh oh. I’m swaying on the road. What do I do?

Don’t panic. “Manually apply the brake to the towable by using the manual switch on the brake controller in the cab of the tow vehicle,” advised Montijo. “When it’s safe to pull over, adjust the tension on the anti-sway bars.”

When the trailer is swaying, it’s because it has more kinetic energy than the tow vehicle. In other words, it is no longer under the control of the tow vehicle—and this can happen regardless of the size or weight of the tow vehicle. The trailer responds by using up that energy by swaying from side to side.

One incident of sway is a warning: something is wrong. If you don’t correct the cause, it will probably happen again. So think about why the sway started. Is there a mechanical problem with the trailer? Is the tongue too light? Heavy winds? Get professional advice before you tow again.

Sway bar tips

(These tips apply to independent sway controls, not those that are integrated into weight distributing hitches.)

You’ll know when an independent sway control is too tight: it’ll squeak. If it’s too loose, fishtailing or swaying can occur. “Each name brand has a different adjustment,” said Montijo. “For proper adjustment it’s best to refer to the owner manual.”

Remove your friction-style sway bars before backing into your campsite. Reversing will be easier (and you won’t damage the tension system).

Avoid towing on icy roads, but if you must, loosen the tension when towing on icy roads. Otherwise the sway control might force the trailer to track badly behind the tow vehicle, making things worse.

Sep 22 2015

What year of Airstream is best for a restoration project?

Shannon O. has a question about her potential Airstream renovation project:

“We want to buy an older Airstream that we can make the inside over to our own,” she wrote. “Is there a better year Airstream to look for over other years? Is there a good place to start looking? Thank you for your time and help.”

Happy to provide an answer, Shannon! All years of Airstreams are good for restoration, but there are certain considerations that might make one era better for your purposes.

1940s

For example, 1940s era Airstreams are rare, small, and utilize a “pipe frame” that can be difficult to restore. They didn’t come with amenities we take for granted today, such as waste water holding tanks, and many other elements must be modified or updated.

1950s and 1960s

In the 1950s larger and somewhat more sophisticated trailers were available, but good restorable examples can be hard to find—and they still didn’t have holding tanks. The windows from this decade are famously difficult to restore, too. In the late 1950s and 1960s black water tanks began to appear, and trailers from this era are considered very desirable, so prices can be high.

1970s

1970s Airstreams are often more cost-effective, and after 1974 they started to get gray water holding tanks (albeit small ones). In this era there were very few short trailers made, so mostly you’ll find 26-footers and longer. Parts are most readily available for these years than earlier, and despite having very “dated” interiors (such as green or orange shag carpets), the 1970s trailers have a classic exterior appeal.

1980s

The 1980s era is not considered very “vintage” by some people but you should take a look anyway, because they are at their price nadir right now and bargains can be found. 1990s and later trailers are commonplace, and you can get anything from a 16-footer to a 34-footer. Their relatively uninteresting interiors are generally ripe for a major facelift too, so you won’t have any guilt over transforming an “original” interior.

Other considerations

Far more important than the model year, however, is the condition of the trailer. Watch out for money pits. An Airstream shell that has no interior, no windows, dents, and a rotten wood floor is not a good candidate for restoration, it’s scrap metal.

Buy something that is at least intact, meaning with no major body damage, still sealed against the elements, and complete with all the doors and windows. If you don’t care about the interior because you’re going to strip it out and replace it anyway, make sure the structure underneath is still viable. Don’t trust the seller on this—check it out yourself or find someone to check it out for you.

You can find Airstreams in many places. Craigslist, online forums, RV “trader” websites, and through word of mouth (especially through the Airstream club WBCCI). Be wary of scams: never put down money on a trailer you haven’t personally touched and inspected. Anyone who asks you to pay through an online escrow service or via money order is trying to rip you off.

If you want to go camping in the next year, or you have a tighter budget, or you are clueless about anything mechanical—buy a nice used Airstream that someone has recently camped in. There are plenty of good ones on the market, and Airstream keeps making more of them.

Finally, keep in mind that Airstreams are not rare, no matter what sellers will claim. Look around, learn to inspect, and be prepared to travel a little to find the right base for your project. If you are patient and pay attention, the ideal Airstream will find you eventually.

Sep 01 2015

Sealants — A Sticky Subject

In the Airstream universe you will find a curious phenomenon: passionate debates about sealants. That’s because the constant movement of all parts on the road causes all travel trailers to leak eventually, and a good sealant is our first line of defense against rain penetration. Rather unfairly, Airstreamers get more of this debate than owners of other brands, mostly because Airstreams have been around for so long, and so many of them remain on the roads after decades of use.

An Airstream might easily be re-sealed a dozen times over its lifetime. In contrast, “disposable” cheap travel trailers tend to get chucked into a landfill when they start to leak because they’re starting to fall apart too. You don’t hear the owners of those talking quite so much about re-sealing. They’re busy re-financing.

The aluminum construction of an Airstream is another reason Airstreamers love to debate sealant. Common silicone sealants don’t adhere as well to aluminum, so we have to use polyurethane sealants that are more expensive but stick like crazy and stay gooey for a long time.

By the way, we use the term “sealant” because “caulk” isn’t flexible, whereas the sealants used on an Airstream are elastomeric, meaning they can stretch without breaking their seal as the travel trailer moves down the road.

Sealants, then and now

In the old days the general-purpose sealant of choice was called Vulkem, and you’ll still hear vintage Airstream owners talk about it. Like the modern sealants, it had a marvelous ability to seal gaps tightly, stick to aluminum, and remain slightly tacky beneath the surface for many years.

These days it has been supplanted by a more modern formulation that carries the same name, as well as a few other new products. Most of the recommended modern sealants have certain characteristics in common: they are sticky like hot salt-water taffy and they adhere to aluminum and plastic like glue. Once cured, they flex a lot without breaking their seal, and they are designed for exterior use (only) so they are UV-resistant and completely waterproof.

As long as you choose a sealant that meets those criteria, you can use any particular one that fits your needs. Popular choices include TremPro 635, Vulkem 116, Sikaflex 221, ParBond, AdSeal, and others. ParBond is thinner than the rest, comes in a silver color, and creates a “rubberized” seal that’s good for tight spots, so it’s typically used on small jobs. The others are great for roof work (they come in colors, so get white), and larger areas of coverage.

Where to shop

Finding appropriate sealant is sometimes difficult. Lots of online sellers offer it but since a tube is anywhere from $6-14 and shipping tends to add $7-9, you want to get it locally or combine it with another order to duck the shipping charge. If you are in a rush to fix a leak, check hardware stores for a construction sealant that is guaranteed waterproof, UV stable, approved for outdoor use and which adheres to aluminum, painted surfaces, and plastic.

You can always go to the local RV store and find acceptable alternative products, but in my experience white-box RV store products seem to be made for the disposable RV market because they often break down too quickly and start to crack, then leak. By comparison, a really good polyurethane sealant can stay sticky, waterproof and pliable for decades, in places that aren’t exposed to the sun.

Sticky situations

There are a few challenges with using this stuff. First off, the fumes are stinky and toxic, which means you have to beware of the fumes if you are lucky enough to have a garage to work on your Airstream.

Second, it’s trickier to shape and smooth than silicone, because it sticks to everything. The old “wet finger” trick that you use with silicone won’t work—these sealants will stick to your wet finger. Wear disposable vinyl gloves and bring along a bunch of paper towels for cleanup.

Third, keep in mind that the good sealants tend to cure very slowly. For example, Vulkem cures at the rate of just 1/16″ of an inch per day at 75 degrees F & 50% humidity. You’ll want to allow some time for a good cure before exposing the new sealant to weather.

Saving sealant

It’s hard to save the leftovers. Once you’ve opened a tube of sealant, take some care to re-seal it well for storage. There are many techniques to try to seal the tube, such as putting a golf tee in the opening, covering with the tip of a rubber glove, using food saver vacuum bags, and commercially-available storage caps of various designs. Hot glue on the tip works well.

Don’t freeze it—that method can cross-contaminate other items in the freezer (your ice cream might taste funny after a while) and the manufacturers of the sealants generally don’t recommend storing at that temperature.

Whatever you do, don’t expect opened sealant to still be usable in a year. Even if you take tremendous effort to close up the tube against outside air and moisture, it will probably cure to a solid lump in a few months. Parbond seems to be the exception. It lasts for years just by replacing the cap.

Safety first

The sealants discussed here are fairly safe but you should take a moment to read the fine print on the tubes before using them. Avoid skin contact or breathing of the vapors in a confined space. (That also goes for chemicals used to clean up afterward.) There are recommended temperatures at which you should apply sealants, and recommended techniques for application, cleanup, and storage.

Sealing the Airstream against leaks really isn’t rocket science. Generally the sealants last a long time, so the old days of climbing on the roof to “re-caulk the seams” every year are over. When replacement is eventually needed, making a good choice of product will be a key part of keeping your Airstream dry and happy.

Sep 01 2015

Mail Forwarding for the Serious RVer

During a recent rally I was approached by an Airstreamer who was unhappy because he wasn’t getting his Airstream Life magazine regularly. It turned out that when he and his wife were traveling, they filled out a temporary mail forwarding order with the US Postal Service, and expected that it would work for up to six months as the USPS website claims.

Unfortunately for this Airstreamer, USPS mail forwarding has significant limitations, among which is that they won’t forward periodicals after 60 days. Since Airstream Life is mailed quarterly, he never got his magazines. The Post Office just tossed them, without even notifying him.

If you’re a frequent traveler, or planning a multi-month trip, you need to find a professional mail forwarding service and use it all the time. This can be a little weird at first, because you’ll need to permanently change your mailing address for everything, to the address of the mail forwarding service. That means you won’t get mail delivered directly to your home anymore (except junk mail).

It can take a few months to get everyone updated on your new address, but the rewards are worth it. Once you’ve got all your bills, correspondence, and other paper mail coming to the new mail forwarding address, life becomes very convenient. Wherever you are, you can simply call, email, or log into the website of your mail service and have them bundle up all your current mail to be sent to you as a single package. In other words, you can deal with the mail on your schedule.

Moreover, a good service will allow you to set up a recurring schedule for delivery. When I’m at home, my mail is automatically shipped to me in a single Priority Mail Flat Rate Envelope (about $5) every week. It arrives in two days and it’s trackable. If I want, I can request UPS delivery with overnight, two day, and three day delivery options. Postage is charged to my credit card on file, and the service costs $12/month.

When I’m on the road, the mail service waits for me to get in touch. I look ahead a few days and pick a convenient location to receive the mail, then place an order for shipment on a particular date. It can be shipped to a campground, a Post Office (using General Delivery), a friend or family’s home, or a business address. When I get there, my mail is always waiting.

If you’re ready to make the switch, keep a few tips in mind:

Choose the right mail forwarding service.

When we were looking for a new mail forwarding service, people advised us to “just use any UPS Store.” Bad idea. What if that little shop in the strip mall closes? It has happened to friends and fellow fulltimers, and they’ve had the hassle of moving everything to another address.

Instead, look for an established mail forwarding specialist that has a succession plan in place in case the owners retire or the business has to move. Also, look for a service that will give you excellent personal attention via phone and email.

Keep it professional.

While it can be tempting to ask a friend to collect your mail at home and forward it to you, be wary. I’ve heard too many stories in which the friend ends up “too busy” and crucial mail is delayed.

Check the fine print.

As with USPS Mail Forwarding, some services have limitations on what they will forward. At Airstream Life we get occasional complaints from subscribers who paid for the cheapest mail forwarding service they could get and found out later that their magazines were getting tossed.

Know your options.

Make sure the service you use will forward your magazines and give you the option to have them discard junk mail (mail which is addressed to “Occupant” or similar). Make sure also that if you receive an unexpected 10-lb paperweight in the mail, they’ll notify you before shipping it at your expense. That way you are getting everything you want, and not paying to forward stuff you don’t want.

Get a permanent solution.

Yes, you can file temporary forwarding orders, but once you experience the convenience of professional and permanent mail forwarding, you will probably become addicted. You’ll never fail to get a bill, statement, check, renewal, or other important mail again, whereas it’s all too easy for things to fall through the cracks with on-again, off-again solutions.

Reduce your volume of mail.

Some full-time friends of mine used to get a giant pack of mail once a month from their mail forwarding service. It would typically run about four inches thick. Then they’d spend a full day sitting in their Airstream, sorting through all the paper, paying bills by check, licking envelopes, and shredding sensitive information. I can’t imagine many worse ways to spend a day in my Airstream! So…

Go paperless.

Get every credit card, utility, bank, and other recurring relationship to send you an e-bill, or get rid of that vendor. Have all your small recurring bills (cell phone, etc) billed automatically to your credit or debit card, to reduce the number of bills you get. Save copies of the e-bills on your computer as PDFs so you can refer to them if you need to. Use online banking to simplify your bill paying. It’s generally free and easy to use.

Some people still feel more comfortable receiving paper bills, but you’ll find that if you don’t use online e-billing you might get hit with late charges. That adds up fast, and can affect your credit rating.

In short, try to eliminate as much paper correspondence as you can. Very few things really need to be in paper form these days, so if you are getting a thick stack of mail every week, take a hard look at what you are getting and see about cutting it back.

Just say no.

Cutting the volume of mail includes simple techniques like asking to be removed from mailing lists and closing unnecessary accounts. Ideally you should just get a few crucial pieces of mail each week, so you can spend most of your time enjoying the travel experience.

Consider state of residence.

You don’t have to choose a mail forwarding service in your home state. I am an Arizona resident, but my mailing address is in Florida. It’s perfectly legal to have your mailing address wherever you like.

However, if you are going out full time, this is a chance to review your state of residency. Fulltimers can sometimes choose where to legally domicile, taking into account factors like state income taxes, vehicle registration fees, voting registration, health care costs, and many other factors.

This is a much more complicated decision, so do your research and choose wisely. You may be considered a resident of some states simply by remaining there for a period of time, or because you own real estate, have a child in school, or operate a business, so in some cases the decision is made for you.

Get a physical street address, not a PO Box.

If not, you may have trouble with banks and drivers licenses later, thanks to certain remaining provisions of the Patriot Act. An address like 411 Walnut St #4468 is fine.

In some cases (as with state Driver’s Licenses and banking accounts) you may be required to provide a “real” physical address as well. In Arizona, the Motor Vehicle Registrar has my home address on file but my driver’s license shows my mailing address. This surprises people regularly—they assume it’s “not legal” but of course it is, and it prevents businesses from capturing my home address and adding it to their databases for junk mail.

There’s one last perk as well: certain Florida entertainment venues have given us the “resident” rate for admission based on our mailing address, even though it’s on an Arizona driver’s license! It’s a small world, after all…

-By Rich Luhr

Aug 11 2015

AC Maintenance

Feeling hot in your Airstream? The quality of cooling you get from your rooftop air conditioner depends a lot on what you do. In normal operation, the air conditioner can produce air that’s about 18 to 22 degrees cooler than what goes into it. That means if the interior of the Airstream is 100 degrees, 80-degree output air is about the best you can expect initially. As the air recirculates, the temperature of the output air will drop. To get the best cooling, do what you can to park in shade, and follow these tips:

Insulate

Close curtains, shades, and blinds. Put insulation to your windows, vent fans and skylights. The “bubble wrap” type of insulation with silver coating works well and can be cut to fit.

Seek shade

If you can’t park in shade, try to park on gravel or grass. Put out your patio awning and window awnings if you have them.

Stay cool

Cook outdoors or use the microwave oven to avoid adding heat to the trailer. Limit use of incandescent lights—each one of them is like a little 10-watt heater.

Monitor voltage

“The best thing you can do for the long life of your air conditioner is to feed it the proper electrical voltage,” said Rich Luhr, author of Airstream Life’s (Nearly) Complete Guide To Airstream Maintenance. “Low voltage is bad news for the compressor.” Don’t expect your air conditioner to start with less than 103.5 volts, and running it on a day when the campground voltage is less than 108 volts is risky.

It only takes a short “brown out” to drop the voltage below a safe level and cause damage, and it can happen while you aren’t looking. This is one reason why you should have an AC voltage monitor somewhere in your Airstream, or an electrical protection device that cuts off the power when the voltage is too low.

Even newer campgrounds can have voltage problems. If it’s a hot, humid day and everyone is running their air conditioning full blast, be wary and check the voltage. Likewise, don’t run your air conditioner on a household extension cord or a household 15-amp outlet because that will add to the risk of low voltage.

Maintenance matters

Don’t use an extension cord rated for less than 30 amps (50 amps for Airstreams with two air conditioners), and never use a household (15-amp) outlet. Keep filters, condenser fins, and all other parts clean. “The last two tips are the ones people ignore the most, and that’s a shame because they are really the most important,” writes Luhr.

To maximize the efficiency of the air conditioner, clean dust off the filters regularly. Dust builds up quickly and can severely reduce the amount of cool air you get. Also, dirty filters cut down the amount of air that can circulate and will encourage frost to form on the cooling coil, which means the air conditioner is more likely to ice up.

Depending on the model of air conditioner you may have two knobs and then two screws to drop the shroud (older style), a pair of surface-mounted plastic vents with tabs to release, or a pair of small filters that can be slid out from the front.

Airstreams with ducted air (25-foot and longer trailers starting with model year 2015) have filters located above the return air grills in the ceiling. Replacement filters are available from Airstream dealers, part #382236.

To remove the return air grill on a trailer with ducted air conditioning, just pry it out with a non-marring tool at the short edges of the screen. The filter lies atop the grill.

While you’ve got the filters out, look inside for excessive dust, bugs, cobwebs, or other debris. You can vacuum this out with a brush attachment. Most filters are washable, so you only need to replace them when they can’t be cleaned or when they get torn.

View from the top

If you want to go further, take a look at the air conditioner from the roof. First, remove the shroud (just a few screws) in order to get a good look at the condenser fins and compressor coils. You can spray the fins with a water hose or compressed air, from the inside out, to clean them up, and bend the fins straight again. There’s a tool called a “fin comb” that can be used for this. Check for mold, wasp nests, and dirt, and clean everything.

If you suspect problems with the air conditioner, it’s probably best to take it to an RV technician. The tech will compare the incoming air temperature to the outgoing air temperature (the “temperature delta”) to see how well the unit is cooling. Other checks include a more thorough inspection of the components, checking the amperage draw, inspecting the condensate drain, the condition of the roof pan and mounting bolts, and perhaps oiling the fan motor.

For more about air conditioning and other invaluable maintenance tips, order your copy of Airstream Life’s (Nearly) Complete Guide To Airstream Maintenance. “Maintenance of your Airstream is not nearly as difficult as most people think, and with just a few basic tools and this guide, you can do almost every routine task yourself,” states author Luhr. “No more trips to the service center for every little thing, and you might even find that this book saves one of your vacations, if something goes wrong on the road!”