Aug 11 2015

Tire Tips—Part 2

[Want to read Part 1 of this article? Click here]

“Ignoring your tires can result in really expensive damage,” writes Rich Luhr, publisher of Airstream Life magazine and author of Airstream Life’s (Nearly) Complete Guide to Airstream Maintenance. “When a tire blows out or is run flat, it often throws off chunks of tread which whack the Airstream and damage the body. It’s not uncommon for a on-the-road tire failure to cause $1,000-2,000 in secondary damage. So let’s get to know our tires and prevent that.”

Luhr and other experienced Airstreamers offer the following tips for buying and maintaining your trailer tires—and steps to take when they fail.

How long do tires last?

“That depends on a lot of things,” said Jon Gold, presenter of a well-received safety seminar during Alumafiesta in Tucson this year. “They last until they wear out, break, get dry rot, or you don’t like the looks of them anymore. A year, or eight years. The best way to get the longest life out of your tires is put in correct air pressure,” he said.

“The second best way is to cover the wheels on the sunny side where you park your Airstream while it’s stored. Ultraviolet radiation from the hot sun causes them to dry out and get checks,” (weather-check cracking). “If you see checks on your tires, it’s time to change them even if you have tread. If a tire doesn’t look good to you—it has a bubble, or a nail—of course, get it fixed or get a new one.”

Nitrogen. What?

Some claim that filling tires with nitrogen will improve performance and gas mileage. “Some nitrogen is good, sure,” said Gold. “But air is 78 percent nitrogen. If you’re a race car driver it might make a difference, but if you’re towing an Airstream with a maximum speed of 65 miles an hour” (the optimum speed for tire care, according to Gold), “it won’t. Just put in air. If you’re obsessive compulsive and you’re someplace that offers nitrogen, go ahead.” Prepare to lighten your wallet, though; a nitrogen fill averages $6 per tire.

Buying tires

“You can buy a brand new tire that’s one month old, or a new tire that’s six years old. The price is the same. Which would you rather have?” said Gold. The answer seems obvious, and there’s a way to find out when a new tire was manufactured. Look at the four-digit code in the oval on any American-made tire—the last two numbers are the year it was manufactured; the first two numbers are the week of the year it was made. (Examples: 0111 means that tire was made during the first week of 2011. 5213? The 52nd week of 2013. You got it.)

“You can say, ‘I want a tire that’s less than six months old, and I’m going to check’,” said Gold. Make sure new tires in the shop were stored properly—on their sides, not on the treads.

Goodyear vs. Michelin

Your Airstream comes from Jackson Center with Goodyear Marathon trailer tires. “I’m not a fan,” said John Irwin, long-time Airstream owner and frequent contributor to Airstream Life magazine. “I’ve had multiple problems and blowouts over the years. I went from those to E-rated truck tires and they were worse! They failed just as often, and when they did they tore up the trailer. They shed tread but retain air, so the tire monitor doesn’t always go off when they fail and they can be back there beating the heck out of the side of the trailer.”

Irwin now uses Michelin light truck tires on 16-inch wheels. “I’m convinced those will take care of me,” he said. “They’re worth the cost—$1400, whatever—particularly for long distance travel.” Airstream began installing Michelins on the Eddie Bauer, and made the upgrade available for other models when customers clamored for better tires.

Blowout!

“Blowouts are rare, but if you do happen to get a flat tire, blowout, or loss of air, do NOT jam on the brake,” said Gold. “Hit the gas pedal, regain control of vehicle, then take your foot off the gas and look for a safe place to stop.”

“If you brake, you put more weight on the flat and it will yank you in that direction,” he explained. “It’s counterintuitive, but instead grab the steering wheel, hit the gas pedal real quick to lighten the weight on the front, then back off. If you see or hear or feel a tire going flat, maintain control, and gradually pull over. Don’t just yank over to the side, cutting people off.”

What about a slow leak?

“If I’m on the highway and know I’m losing air, I’d rather go to a good tire shop, even if I have to go thirty miles to find one,” said Irwin. “I carry a bottle of Fix-A-Flat and put some of that in there and keep going.” Look at the labels on tire sealants. “Some have a warning that they’re dangerous for anybody who has to work on that tire later,” said Irwin. “Choose one that’s safe. It will usually cost a couple dollars more.”

Be prepared with the items you’ll need to fix a flat:

Breaker bar with extension and socket
Leveling blocks
Visibility: fluorescent vest, flares, flashers or cones
Tire pressure gauge
Torque wrench
Torque stick (only if you might let a shop put the wheels back on for you)
Mechanic’s gloves (optional, to keeps your hands clean)

How to change a tire

“Everyone calls it ‘changing a tire’ but what you are really doing is changing a tire and wheel assembly. The wheel is the metal part, the tire is the rubber part, and you are going to remove them as one piece,” explained Luhr. “Later, a tire shop will remove the tire from the wheel to patch or replace it.” If you get a flat, stay calm and follow his step-by-step instructions:

1.Airstreams don’t come with the tools you need to change a tire, so it’s up to you to obtain the necessary tools and carry them in the Airstream. The lug nuts on most Airstreams require a 13/16” socket, but some may need a 3/4” socket. You’ll also need a 1/2” drive wrench (also called a “breaker bar”) and a 6” or longer extension, or a cross-type lug nut tool. To put the lug nuts back on correctly, you should have a good quality torque wrench, also in the 1/2” drive size.

2. If you are working by the side of the road, it’s a good idea to put out some flares, orange cones, or whatever you might have to warn people zooming by. At the very least turn on the hazard lights on the tow vehicle—they’ll flash the Airstream’s taillights too. Make sure you’re visible as well, by throwing on a reflective safety vest or shirt.

3. Get the spare tire and wheel out of its carrier. Check the air pressure in the spare. If it’s low, you should add air to get it up to the recommended pressure. A tire that is low on air is likely to blow out, which could make things a lot worse. If the pressure in the spare is more than 15% low and you can’t add air, you might consider three-wheel towing for a short time.

4. Next, loosen but do not remove the lug nuts of the wheel you need to remove. This is because it will be difficult to loosen those nuts once the wheel is off the ground. If you can’t get the nuts off with your arms, try positioning the wrench so you can put your foot on it.

5. Once the tire is back on the ground, you must finish tightening the lug nuts to the factory spec. The correct torque is extremely important. Under the right amount of tension, the wheel is drawn to the brake hub face and the lug bolt will be well mated with the lug nut. Too much torque and the lug bolt will be stretched, and eventually break. Too little tension and the lug nut can work off.

6. You can’t judge the correct tightness accurately by feel, so you need to carry a torque wrench, and instructions on how to use your torque wrench should come with it. For most torque wrenches you set the target torque in foot-pounds and the wrench will “click” when you’ve tightened the nut to that setting. Remember to re-set your torque wrench to zero when you are done with it.

7. Check the Owner’s Manual or documentation for the wheels to verify the correct torque, and make a note somewhere of that number so you have it handy when you have to replace a wheel.

8. Don’t let tire shop personnel put your wheels on with an air wrench. Air wrenches can put out far too much torque and overstress the lug bolts. Instead, insist they use a manual (hand) wrench, or get a “torque stick” rated for 60 ft-lbs and have them use that. Then tighten the nuts to the correct torque specification with your torque wrench. Better yet, just tell the tire shop to give you the wheels when they are done, and you can put them on yourself. That way you know it will be done right. Use the torque wrench only to tighten the lug nuts, never to remove them. It’s a calibrated instrument that can go out of whack if you use it to remove nuts.

9. It’s very important to re-check the lug nuts after the trailer has been towed for a while. This is because the lug nuts need a little time to “seat” properly. A common recommendation is to check the lug nuts with your torque wrench after 25 miles, then again at 50 miles, and one last time after 100 miles from when you changed the tire. If you don’t check and re-tighten the lug nuts to proper torque, they may loosen over time, which can lead to losing a wheel.

If you missed Tire Tips — Part One, find the complete article here.

Jul 21 2015

Tire Tips—Part 1

“Your tires do a big job, and they don’t ask much of you in return,” writes Rich Luhr, publisher of Airstream Life magazine and author of the new Airstream Life’s (Nearly) Complete Guide to Airstream Maintenance. “Just keep them inflated, inspect them periodically, and replace them when they get too old or worn.”

Luhr and other Airstream experts share their top tips about trailer tires in this and the next issue of Outside Interests.

Tire pressure: the magic pill

What’s the easiest way to better your ride, decrease your tire wear, and improve braking and road handling? “Correct your tire pressure,” said Jon Gold, presenter of a safety lecture during a recent Alumaevent.

Tire inflation illustration — “You want your tire to look like the one in the middle of this diagram,” said safety presenter Jon Gold.

“When you’re under-inflated, you’re riding on your sidewalls, the thinnest part of your tires,” explained Gold. “You’re asking for a blowout.” The optimum tire pressure for your Airstream is hidden in plain sight on the side of your coach, on a metal plate.

“Typically that number is either 50 or 65 psi,” writes Luhr in his maintenance guide. “The tire pressure should reflect the loaded weight of the trailer.” If your Airstream rolls on factory-issued Goodyear Marathon ST (Special Trailer) tires, see Goodyear’s Load/Inflation tables online to determine the right psi. Incorrect pressure can cause uneven wear and other problems—some severe.

Invest in a good tire pressure gauge,

and use it before every trip (and after you set out on the road again after camping for awhile). “Buy a good brass gauge with a short piece of hose,” advises John Irwin, Airstreamer and contributor to Airstream Life magazine. “That makes it easier to get it on the valve stem without losing a lot of air in the tire.”

“Keep the gauge with your trailer tools, along with a 12-volt DC air pump with an extension cord,” suggests Luhr. “It’s a nuisance trying to find an air pump at a gas station when you need a top-up, and often difficult to get close enough to it with your trailer. Having an AC-powered air compressor at home is a convenience, too.”

Consider a tire pressure monitoring system

Keep track of your tire inflation with a TPMS. “These systems typically use sensors screwed onto the valve stems, or placed inside the wheel,” explained Luhr. “A remote monitor in the tow vehicle will alert you if the tire becomes dangerously under-inflated, or over-inflated, usually from overheating of the brake or wheel bearing parts.”

“You want to know what’s going on with your tires because often you won’t feel or see a change in tire air pressure. On multi-axle Airstreams it’s even possible to lose a wheel entirely and not feel any change in towing characteristics,” he said.

Knowing immediately what’s going on can save you a lot of trouble. Buy a quality TPMS; “this is a case where you’ll get what you paid for,” said Luhr.

Installing a TPMS means you’ll know the pressure of each tire moments after you get in your tow vehicle, every time you tow. “No more bending down and checking each tire one at a time, no more getting your hands dirty, and less time spent getting ready to tow,” Luhr said. “Don’t forget to buy a spare monitor for the spare tire, so you don’t have to slide under the Airstream to check it before every trip.”

“Tire monitoring systems will catch most threats in most cases,” said Irwin. Owner of several Airstreams and other trailer models through the years, he offers this tip: “When underway, and you’re stopped at a stop light, reach over and punch through all the tires in the system, and look for any tire that doesn’t match the others. If one is very high and hot, something’s wrong. If one is low, you could have a slow leak, or worse.” Keep in mind that pressure varies with the temperature of the environment—it climbs when tires get hot, and drops as tires cool. “The sunny side can be higher than the shady side,” Irwin said.

When and how often to check pressure and inflate?

Because of temperature changes and normal leakage (losing one to two psi a month is expected) check your tire pressure once a month. During a trip, check them weekly.

There’s no need to remove air when tire pressure increases during the day, and don’t stress out about temporary altitude changes, (such as heading up the hill for a day of skiing)—the correct pressure is the one you put in when your tires are cool before you start your day of driving. If you move to a new campsite with a significantly different altitude, adjust your tire pressure the following morning.

Do a walkaround and look for signs of trouble whenever you inflate. “Check your tires for bulges,” said Irwin. “Does it look like a bicycle tire? If it’s round, the pressure could be way too high, or it could be a slipped belt.” Check for thrown (delaminated) treads, bulges in the tread, isolated worn patches, and rapid wear in an isolated area.

Want more? Read Part 2 by clicking here!

Jun 30 2015

Newbies Tool Kit

Airstream maintenance might seem like something only an RV technician can do, but most routine maintenance isn’t hard, especially if you have the right tools to get the job done. Almost anyone can do the basics with a little instruction.

Naturally, the tools you need depend on the jobs you are willing to take on. For most tasks you can get by very comfortably with just a few tools. You should have a small collection of tools and parts that stay in the Airstream to deal with on-the-road problems. Consider carrying the parts and tools needed to do common maintenance like:

change a tire
replace a fuse or light bulb
disconnect / re-connect the battery
clean up corrosion
detect a gas leak and tighten a gas connection
remove and replace a rivet
tighten a loose screw
test a power outlet
fix a simple plumbing fixture leak
stop a rainwater leak
lubricate hinges, latches, and hitch

Surprisingly, you don’t need a ton of fancy tools to do those jobs. Most of them are readily found in hardware stores.

Probably the most useful (and expensive) tool you might need is a cordless drill. Get a powerful one, 18 volts or better. Obviously it’s great for drilling holes if you need to install a new hook somewhere, but you will end up using it the most to raise and lower the stabilizers on your trailer. (You’ll need a socket adapter and the correct size of socket.) This turns a tedious chore into a 30 second non-event. You will appreciate this the first time you set up or break camp in a heavy rain.

The cordless drill is essential for drilling out broken rivets so you can install replacements, so you’ll want a set of drill bits as well. The usual size drill for an interior rivet in an Airstream is #30, or 1/8” but you should get a set that ranges from 1/16” to 1/4”.   With a small set of screw bits, your cordless drill can also be used as a high-speed, high-power cordless screwdriver. Owners who have equipped their Airstream with either a Hensley Arrow or Pro-Pride 3P hitch can also use a cordless drill with the 3/4” socket and socket adapter to run their weight distribution bars up and down.

The only other expensive tool you need for maintenance is a good torque wrench (and a 10″ extension & socket), so you can be sure you’ve got the lug nuts tightened properly when you change a tire. (Or a complete Tire Changing Kit.)

The rest of the tools most people need are pretty simple and not terribly expensive, even the rivet tool used to replace pop rivets.

If you travel for long periods, or if you’ve got an older Airstream, then you’ll want more stuff. The trick is not knowing what to bring, it’s knowing when to stop packing tools. Turning your tow vehicle into a rolling tool box is overkill, and can even be dangerous if you are overloading it with heavy tools you won’t need.

On a long expedition, it might make sense to carry a hard-to-find tool or part, if it’s light or small, but there’s a point at which it makes more sense to find a service center—or just buy the part when you actually need it. This is a judgement call.

You should be prepared for anything that might seriously disrupt a trip and is easily repairable on the road, such as problems with tires, electricity, gas leaks, and water leaks. It’s really frustrating to be somewhere wonderfully remote, like Big Bend National Park in Texas, or the north rim of Grand Canyon, and find you have power problems because of a simple bad ground caused by corrosion—but be forced to leave because you don’t have the tools to find and fix it.

Here are a few more suggestions of basic tools and supplies you should consider carrying in your Airstream or tow vehicle at all times:

Tools for changing a tire. Airstreams don’t come with tire changing equipment or instructions, and the ones for your tow vehicle won’t work. Our kit includes everything you need, such as torque wrench, tire pressure gauge, a high-visibility vest, instructions, and more.

Silicone spray. Dozens of sticky areas on your Airstream can benefit from a squirt of silicone spray: the awning, hinges, locks, stabilizers, vent seals, window seals, and more.

Hitch ball lube or grease. No one likes a squeaky hitch. Use a heavy-duty grease.

Headlamp. Go hands-free while making repairs, manipulating parts, or searching through supplies.

First Aid kit. Only the Interstate comes with a first aid kit. Buy a pre-assembled kit, or make your own, and be sure it has more than just a few Band-Aids.

Voltage monitor. Low voltage kills air conditioners. Plug it into any interior outlet while you’re hooked to shore power and make sure the voltage is at least 114 when the air conditioner or microwave are running.

Screwdriver set, or combination screwdriver. Did you know that Phillips screws are the most common in Airstream trailers? Stock a couple of sizes, and medium, small and “stubby” flat heads too. One space-saving combination screwdriver provides all you’ll need.

Tape. Pack Teflon plumber’s tape (PTFE), useful for stopping leaks on threaded fittings (choose the blue “Monster” brand), and a small selection of other specialty tapes: electrical, duct, and/or masking as needed. Some available in silver.

A few screws, especially #8 and #10 wood screws for replacing lost screws in furniture and wall attachments. (Some wood glue wouldn’t hurt, either.) Look for an assortment of stainless screws in the boat store.

Rivet gun, and a small handful of aluminum POP rivets: 1/8” aluminum POP rivets (grip range 1/8” —1/4”) for the interior; 3/16” aluminum large flange POP rivets (grip range 1/8”—1/4”) for the belly pan. Replacing POP rivets is easy. Click here to see how easy it is!

You can find a top quality rivet gun at store.airstreamlife.com, with instructions on how to use it.

Heavy duty scissors. You’ll find many uses for strong kitchen or utility-style shears, or a retractable safety knife.

Rubber hose washers for fresh water hoses that leak at the fittings.

Wrenches and pliers. Carry a small selection for tightening gas fittings, removing drain plugs, and more. Start with a single adjustable wrench and ordinary pliers, and then add more if you see the need.

Spare incandescent bulbs for interior lighting, brake and turn signals, and clearance lights. If you’ve got a newer Airstream with full LED lighting, you don’t need to carry spares. Some of the LEDs are replaced as whole fixtures rather than bulbs.

Fuses. Assorted 12v automotive-style blade fuses are handy, primarily the yellow 20-amp and green 30-amp fuses. (Check your power converter to see what ratings your trailer requires.)

Sandpaper, emery cloth or a small burnishing tool to remove corrosion on wires.

Electrical tools. Wire stripper/cutter, red and blue butt splices, electrical tape, and butt splice crimping tool—if you might occasionally modify or repair 12-volt wiring.

Old beach towel. Those who’ve read The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy know that a towel is about the most massively useful thing you can have—and the best value tool you’ll ever carry in your Airstream. Use it for a pad when kneeling by or laying under the trailer, cleaning dirty hoses and cords, drying tools, etc.

May 19 2015

Be seen!

“I don’t think Airstreams come with enough reflectors to be safe,” said John Irwin, seminar presenter at a recent Alumaevent. “One night I went to a meeting in my neighborhood, when my Airstream was parked in front of my house. Afterwards, I walked up the street towards the trailer and I realized that I couldn’t see it at night very well. So one of the first things I did with my new trailer was to increase the amount of reflective surface.”

Irwin—an Airstream Life contributor since the magazine began in 2004—is known for designing clever modifications that you can apply to your own factory-issue Airstream to make it safer and more convenient. Many are easy and affordable, and the following tips will keep you and your trailer more visible on the road and at your campsite.

Stick ‘em up.

“If you look at any 18-wheeler on the road you’ll find that they’re bedecked with red and white reflective markers,” said Irwin, who recommends affixing the same type of strips to your trailer as he uses on his third Airstream, a 2005 28-foot Classic.

“The Classic with the pull out drawer in the back is perfect for those,” he said, as the height of the bumper is precisely the same as a standard reflectors that you can buy at any auto parts store. The package usually contains three reflectors; peel and stick two to your bumper and get creative with the third one. “I cut that up in pieces and put the white portions on the front of the trailer and banana wrap, and the red ones on the back of the trailer,” said Irwin

“This has a nice side effect,” he said. “When we’re at a rally and we’re walking back at night, you can spot your trailer a mile away with a flashlight. Virtually everyone in our (WBCCI) Unit has additional reflectors on their Airstream.”

Convert to LED taillights.

Most recent Airstreams are installed with LED taillights, but if you don’t have them, Irwin suggests converting from incandescents to deter rear-end accidents. “LEDs are much safer at sundown,” he explained. “They can be seen with sun on the back of the trailer.”

Conversion kits are available for most Airstreams, but if you can’t find one for your model it’s easy to MacGyver a solution. “Get on the internet with somebody like LED4RV and start a conversation,” suggests Irwin. “They can most certainly come up with a way to convert your taillights to LED. They’ll be eager to work with you, and it gives them something new to sell to customers.”

Fire up your clearance lights.

“If you’re broken down by the highway somewhere, it’s a good idea to light up your trailer, particularly if a tow vehicle has to be unhitched and taken away for repair,” said Irwin, who recommends purchasing an inexpensive old-style clearance light blinker at any auto parts store. “Back in the old days before cars were computerized there were little blinker units that you can still plug in to your umbilical cord to make your lights blink,” he said. (Be aware that running the clearance lights all night without being connected to power will run down the battery.)

Travel with a safety cone—or two, or three.

Distracted or sleepy drivers often hit disabled vehicles on the shoulder of the road, so carry several warning devices to place behind your parked or broken-down rig. Traffic cones—including space-saving collapsible models—are easy to purchase online and at hardware and RV parts stores. “I have three of them,” said Irwin. “They actually come in handy for a lot of things; put one by your ProPride hitch stinger to keep your friends from tripping over it, or set up cones by a hazard at an RV park or rally.”

“Even in the smallest Airstream you can have a few reflector triangles,” he said. “They don’t take up a lot of space, and they don’t cost too much money.” You might need to weigh them down with a wrench or rock to secure them against the wind from passing traffic. (Irwin suggests bean bags.)

“Invest in a really good LED flashlight,

and expect to pay forty dollars or more for it,” said Irwin. “You need a good light, and be able to get your hands on it when you need it.” It will always be accessible if you do what he did: screw the canvas case your flashlight came in to a wall inside a cabinet in your Airstream.

Blinky gadgets

Irwin uses various emergency lights—like the flashy rotating Turboflare—for safety and misadventures. “I like to keep a light inside the trailer between the curtain and the back window,” he said. “It really makes the trailer show up to any traffic that’s coming down the street. Let it run all night.” Continuous lights inside give an unoccupied Airstream a lived-in look.

Double trouble

“Everybody—all my kids, all my grandkids—keep giving me LED lights,” Irwin laughed. “I have several LED trouble lights that I’ve collected over the years.” Trouble lights come in various nifty configurations and usually have a hook for hanging. “They are really nice if you have to change a tire or something like that at night,” said Irwin. “Those lights are worth their weight in gold.”

Check all gadgets once a year to ensure that the batteries are viable.

Try this old Army trick: when the device isn’t in use, flip the batteries around backwards (reversing the plus/minus direction) to prolong their life.

May 19 2015

How to improve your battery charging while boondocking

Nancy in Casa Grande, Arizona has questions about battery power:

“We are interested in upgrading the battery in our Airstream, and the converter to one that will charge via the generator better than the factory model. We want the battery to last longer when we dry camp, and have a converter that charges without running the generator for hours on end. The Xantrex was really overkill for us and the price for the amount of time we spend dry camping seemed a bit high. Is there a less high end unit available (we really don’t need a lot of the features)?”

Nancy, good question—and you’ve actually asked two separate questions. First, no matter what type of battery you use, it can only put out as much power as it can store. So to get more camping time when “off grid”, you need larger capacity batteries or more batteries (or both). Look at the “C/20” amp-hour rating of batteries—the higher, the better.

The trade-off will be increased weight, size, and expense, so think carefully about how much power capacity you need. Also consider where larger or more numerous batteries will fit in your Airstream. A professional solar consultant can be very helpful here.

Your second question was about the converter/charger. Upgrading the converter/charger won’t dramatically speed up the charge rate of the batteries. The battery is the primary limitation when it comes to charge rate. A “3-stage” charger will help a little, but you’ll still be running the generator for hours to get the battery full.

A better choice for frequent boondockers is a solar panel in conjunction with your generator. Use the generator for short “bulk” charges when the battery is low. Turn the generator off when the battery reaches about 80% or the charging rate slows down to a trickle. Then let the solar panel do the rest of the work over the course of the day.

You’ll need to install a good battery amp-hour monitor so you can see the battery charge rate, which will add about $200 to the tab, but for extended camping without power hookups it’s well worth the investment.